Suspension:
An MGB's suspension does not have the adjustment range of more modern cars. The geometry is built into the suspension. If components are worn, the car will not steer properly. All of the bushes should be upgraded to polyurethane. The red ones are slightly stiffer than stock, the black ones are equal to stock. The kingpins and trunions must be in perfect shape and should be lubed regularly.
The steering column and steering rack should be in good fettle. The easiest way to work on the rack is to remove it from the car. Check the rack boots for cracks or splits, replacing them as needed. They are cheap. Fill the rack with synthetic gear oil, not grease. Inspect, or simply replace the tie rod ends. Check the U-joint in the steering shaft for stiff spots. If it is at all sticky, replace it. While the rack is out, check the steering column for worn bearings. If it makes crunchy noises when the wheel is spun, the bearings are shot. They can be replaced with nylon ones, which are far quieter. Also, be sure that the collapsible steering column has not come apart. If the lower shaft wants to fall out of the upper shaft, the shear union has failed. Bring it to me to be rebuilt.
The front sway bar should be changed to a 3/4” unit, with poly bushes, to keep up with the road-holding ability of modern tires.
If the front shocks are not in perfect condition, or are leaking, replace them with rebuilt units, or upgrade to Koni/Spax tube shocks.
Rear shocks should be upgraded to tube shocks. This is a simple change and quite inexpensive. Additional adjustability is offered by further upgrading to the Spax version.
Have the driveshaft serviced. This involves straightening it, replacing the u-joints and slip-yoke as needed and balancing the entire assembly.
Inspect, and probably replace, the thrust washers inside the rear end, replace the seals and fill the rear end with synthetic lube.
Wire-wheeled cars MUST have good splines both on all the wheels and all the hubs.